FAQ – FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Last: 2023-11-28
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General/Cross-sector
Technics and operation
How do I set up my e-drums in the best way?
What are the components of a complete e-drumset?
Why does the sound of an unplayed pad resonate quietly (and what can I do about it)?
Sound
ROLAND
TD-17/TD-17V2
TD-27/TD-27V2
TD-50/TD-50X
Accordion Heading
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Are e-Drums real drums?
YES! Even though e-drums and a-drums function differently, they serve the same purpose for which the drummer uses a drum kit: To create rhythmic sounds, to play grooves, to let off steam in soloing, and to be the timekeeper for the band. As with guitars, acoustic and electronic drums complement each other. It depends on the situation, which drum set is more suitable for that particular situation.
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Can I use e-drums live?
Generally no problem – every e-drum module has at least one stereo output that you can connect to the PA system.
The more professional the module is, the more individual outputs you can send to the system. As a result, you can edit and mix (or have the sound engineer mix) the individual sounds of your e-drums all the more selectively. However, this also means more pre-work that you have to do to make sure everything sounds good and runs smoothly. Know your machine!
Two big advantages in the live situation: you save microphones and stands – and you have a much lower basic volume compared to a-drums.
Absolutely important to note: the other guys in the band need to hear you! E-drums don’t make noise on their own, so you need to make sure there’s some kind of monitoring (via speakers or headphones) for everyone.
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Are all pads (also from other manufacturers) suitable for all modules?
No. Even though almost all pads have the same connectors (namely jack stereo 6.3 mm), there is different technology behind the mechanical sameness of the connectors. An electrical voltage is generated when the pad is struck. This varies depending on the pad – and each module can only handle a certain type of incoming voltage. If pad and module do not match, this can be noticed in different ways – but in any case negatively.
Even with pads and modules from the same manufacturer, you can’t expect them to all work with one another. So check this before buying more pads for your module!
There are third-party manufacturers who have pads for common modules in their program. These manufacturers precisely indicate the compatibility of their pads with specific modules or manufacturers.
Roland first introduced digital transmission technology in 2016 with the TD-50. This only works with the corresponding digital pads (currently a digital Snare, a digital Ride and a digital Hi-Hat). So far, only the TD-50, the TD-50X and the TD-27 or TD-27V2 can handle digital pads. The connection is made via USB. (All other pads are connected in the conventional way, i.e. with jack stereo 6.3 mm).
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Which is the best e-drumset on the market?
This question cannot be answered in a blanket manner, as too many individual factors want to be taken into account. Above all, the saying “the more expensive, the better” has no meaning here at all!
What do you want to do with a highly complex device if you are not interested in the technology at all, but mainly want to play quietly? Or the other way around: if you are an enthusiastic “sound wrench”, you don’t want a simple device, but are looking for as many sound editing features as possible.
So it’s more about which is the best electric drum set for you! To find out, here’s the Grand Flight Over the Field of E-Drums, a free book in PDF format that you can download right now. Click here now and get The Grand Flight!
By the way, some of the most important e-drums on the market are also reviewed there. If there is an electric drum set that best combines the characteristics of the famous “Jack of all trades”, then it is probably the TD-17KV or TD-17 KVX from Roland. This compact set has sophisticated trigger technology, sounds good, is reliable and can be programmed without overwhelming you with functions. It is not without reason that it ranks among the best-selling electric drum sets in the world.
Does that make it the best e-drumset on the market? At least it’s a set you can’t go far wrong with!
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What distinguishes e-drums from a-drums in feel and sound?
By design alone, an electronic drumset can never feel like an acoustic set, and vice versa. The physical feel of playing can therefore hardly be evaluated objectively.
Much more important, therefore, is the question of the emotional feel of playing. To put it simply, the same principle applies to both types of drums: the higher the quality and the more coherent the sound, the better the emotional feel.
The biggest difference, which is also clearly noticeable, can only be evaluated according to personal taste: the fact that a-drums sound by themselves, producing a minimum volume and always including the three-dimensional sound of the room, while the sound of e-drums comes directly from the headphones or a point sound source (speaker) and is adjustable in volume. Guitarists also know this difference from their acoustic and electric guitars.
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What is the difference between mesh heads and rubber pads – and which is better?
Mesh Heads are heads made of air-permeable nylon mesh that closely resemble the feel of conventional plastic heads on acoustic drums while being virtually silent. Their skin tension is adjustable to a certain degree (via the tuning screws on the lugs). Mesh heads can be easily replaced. The heads are available in the sizes that are also common for acoustic drums.
Due to their construction, rubber pads are harder and, above all, louder. The feel is less authentic to acoustic drums and can’t be adjusted either. Rubber pads are basically small (about 6″ to 10″ in diameter) and are used primarily in compact low-cost e-drumsets.
The question of “better” must be considered in a differentiated manner: while mesh heads are preferable for drums due to their advantages, rubber is more suitable for simulating the vibration behavior of acoustic cymbals due to its weight alone. That’s why there are no mesh head cymbals on the market.
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Can I play to music with e-drums?
YES! Whether it’s whole songs or play-alongs, single phrases or loops: depending on the e-drum model (referring to the sound module), there are one or more of the following ways to play to audio:
1. Von deinem Audioplayer (iPhone, Tablet, MP3-Player etc) über den Mixeingang (Mix In oder ähnlich benannt) 1. from your audio player (iPhone, tablet, MP3 player etc) via the mix input (Mix In or similarly named)
With a connection via cable or Bluetooth, the signal from your audio player is routed to your module, where you can adjust the volume to your kit to play along comfortably. The operation (start, stop) is made via your audio player.
2. Using the import function of your module
Some modules can import audio files and manage them internally. The range of functions varies from simple (one-time or repeated) playback, to A-B points for targeted playback of individual sections, to a start-stop function that you can place on a pad.
3. Using MIDI
Older devices like the Roland TD-30 have a multi-track MIDI player and can play songs or song phrases with imported MIDI files. You can mute the tracks or assign different sounds to them. Direct “feeding” with MIDI data via a computer or recording your playing as a MIDI file is also one of the options.
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What are the components of a complete e-drumset?
Similar to acoustic drumsets, which are often offered as a “shell set” (the shell set is just the drums, with no cymbals or hardware), electronic drumsets are not necessarily complete. You must make sure to have at least the following components to get started right away:
- The sound module incl. holder, (if necessary also a tripod in addition), power cable or power supply and, if needed, suitable trigger whip (if the module has a multipin connector)
- Pads (at least Kick, Snare, plus 2 or more Toms, at least Hi-Hat, 1 Crash, 1 Ride)
- individual stands or drum racks with suitable holders for each drum and cymbal pad
- for each pad a trigger cable (depending on the module individually or as a breakout cable with multipin connector)
- Drum throne
- Foot Pedal
- Hi-Hat stand (compact sets may offer a controller pedal instead)
- A pair of drumsticks
- Headphones and/or amplifier system (monitor speaker(s)/PA system); make sure the plugs and sockets fit correctly!
- Not mandatory, but highly recommended: suitable carpet of sufficient size.
With offered complete sets you can assume that you get at least the module, the pads and a drum rack including all mounts and cables. So the main things missing are a drum throne, sticks and headphones; higher-priced sets often also lack a Hi-Hat stand and foot machine. Don’t forget the carpet!
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Do I need different playing techniques for e-drums compared to a-drums?
Modern e-drums have a quite realistic feel and can be played like acoustic drums. So basically you don’t need to develop any other playing techniques.
BUT ATTENTION: It is very important that you get to know the trigger parameters of your e-drum module in connection with the whole set! The technology allows and requires you to adapt it to your playing technique. This can be somewhat time-consuming, but in general it is only a one-time process.
Tip: If at any point you feel you need to change your playing technique to get around an undesirable situation, you are just adapting to the e-drums. (Example: double triggers in the bass drum that make you kick the foot pedal very differently than you normally would). This must not be the case, so you have to get to the trigger parameters. Always keep in mind:
Your e-drums have to adapt to your playing – not vice versa!
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Can e-drums help me become a better drummer?
YES! Modern e-drums not only give you a very good feel, but also help you become a better drummer in several ways. Since e-drums are quiet, you can practice to the built-in click without putting undue strain on your ears. Some e-drums have a so-called Rhythm Coach, which not only contains special exercises, but also specifically monitors your playing. This function can be combined with learning software for computer and iPad. You can also play along with loops or entire music tracks, making your exercises much more alive and fun.
If you want to get e-drums with the goal of becoming a better drummer, pay attention to two points in particular:
- The trigger technology is mature, so the feel really suits you and you can develop a good playing technique unhindered.
- It’s not about as many sounds and gimmicks as possible; look primarily for coach functions and the option to play to music and/or loops.
TIP: if you’re not sure which e-drumset is right for you, you’ll get valuable help with the “Grand Flight over the Field of E-Drums”. Click this link and get your free PDF now!
How do I connect my e-drums to a computer?
The most common reason for connecting your e-drum module to your computer is probably the desire to record your drumming. However, you can also monitor and analyze your playing via the computer using suitable software in order to learn and practice in a targeted manner.
How you connect your module depends on what outputs the module has and what inputs your computer provides. The three most common connection types are:
- Analog connection via the stereo output (audio) of the module into the stereo input of the computer. All you need is a suitable audio cable. This is the simplest solution with the most limitations and the least good quality.
- More than two individual outputs of the module (for example, to record each instrument independently of the other played instruments) are connected to a corresponding number of inputs of a so-called audio interface; the interface, in turn, establishes a digital connection (e.g., via USB) to the computer.
- Your module has a digital interface itself. Then you can use a single cable (often USB) to simultaneously send data from multiple instruments to the computer separately. This usually provides the highest quality since the digital layer is not left. Your computer may need a so-called driver to recognize your module correctly. The appropriate driver is generally available free of charge from the manufacturer of the module.
Today, the possibilities that were previously limited to “adult” computers (Mac, Windows, Linux) are expanding to iPad or tablet PCs. So you can plug in high quality interfaces or make direct digital connections. In addition, the software is becoming more and more powerful.
How can I improve the sound of my e-drums?
Excellent question! Unfortunately, it is often forgotten that you need a minimum knowledge of recording studio technology if you want to use the built-in tools of your e-drum module properly.
You will find a lot of helpful information here at Gear Force One to dive deeper into the matter. But even with rudimentary methods you can achieve a lot:
- When you’re putting together a kit from the built-in sounds, listen carefully! Do the sounds match up? For example, if the Snare has a large amount of space in it that you can’t remove, then your kit will sound more coherent if the Toms are also spatial rather than “dead”.
- Observe the panorama settings and correct them, if needed! For a more realistic (and therefore better sounding) experience, set each instrument in the Panorama panel so that you hear it exactly where you see it. The Bass Drum (Kick) belongs in the middle (even if you play it a bit sideways), as it is a high-energy instrument that serves your hearing as the center of your acoustic orientation.
- Make sure that the volume ratios are in tune! It is surprising how many presets (preset kits), regardless of the manufacturer, are not at all coherent in terms of the volume levels of the individual instruments – or of the instrument groups (toms, cymbals) in relation to the other instruments (groups). Here you can often work small miracles by simply adjusting the volume levels.
- Investing in the right headphones pays off! Technically, it must be able to handle the headphone amplifier of your module (keyword impedance), so that it is loud enough without distorting; it should shield well against external noise and still be comfortable to wear; and it does not have to sound as neutral as possible, but on the contrary may provide some “extra boost” especially in the bass and in the higher mids.
How do I set up my e-drums in the best way?
E-drums are available as “mirrors” of acoustic drums with identical sizes. In addition, however, there are numerous models on the market that technically perform the same, but are significantly smaller (smaller diameter, shallow depth.)
Both of these designs have advantages and disadvantages that you should keep in mind when building your e-drumset. The bigger and more numerous your stuff is, the tougher the fight for space among the components. You can set compact e-drums much tighter, but the dimensions also have limits. For example, many compact drum racks are not high enough to accommodate taller drummers. Furthermore, it quickly becomes tight when it comes to placing additional components.
From this follows: there are too many differences and therefore no standard instructions for an optimal setup. However, there is one solid-gold ground rule that you should make your top priority:
Always make sure your e-drumset adapts to your body – never bend to fit the conditions of your set! If necessary, go shopping instead (bigger rack, higher stands, better drum stool).
What is a .zip file?
A .zip file is a so-called archive file. You need it if you want to have several files and/or file folders combined in one piece. Unlike a folder on your computer, you can get .zip files as a download to your computer, for example. Think of it like a shipping box that you close and tape shut before you put it in the mail. The box contains all the individual files. (You can’t put a regular file folder in the mail; you have to pack and tape it up first, too).
In the case of the .zip file, a zipper is used figuratively. You can therefore usually recognize a .zip file by the file icon, which looks like a package closed with a zipper.
Therefore, in practice, it is also called “packing a zip file” (usually via the context menu in the Finder (Mac) or Explorer (Windows)). To get to the files, you have to “unzip” the .zip file again (usually by double-clicking on the .zip file).
A considerable side effect of compiling a .zip file is that it has a smaller file size than the individual files taken together. The data is compressed when packed (zipped) and decompressed when unpacked (unzipped). Depending on the individual files, the effect can be very small, but also very significant.
Mac and Windows PC use the terms “compress” and “unpack”.
An archive that works on the same principle is the RAR archive, which has the .rar file extension.
What are one-shot samples good for – and what are they not good for?
One-shot samples are short recordings of any instrument that you can use in more and more e-drum modules on the market to complement the built-in sounds.
This is usually done by layering: the one-shot sample is mixed with the built-in sound to make the layered sound more powerful or to add sound components. For example, a one-shot sample that has a lot of Snare wires could perfectly complement the Snare used in the module, which has less Snare wires.
Since one-shot samples stand alone, they have no dynamic range. A one-shot sample of a Snare recorded at medium volume will always sound at medium volume, even if it is played loudly or softly.
Therefore, one-shots are not suitable for providing an entire instrument that is “calculated” from numerous dynamically tuned samples or synthetic sounds, like a sound built into the e-drum module.
How can I connect more pads or cymbals to my module?
The number of trigger inputs of a sound module is limited. If you have a need for more inputs, there are two main options:
- As a rule, the trigger inputs are designed as dual zone inputs. For example, you can assign two different sounds to a Dual Pad, with one sound on the center playing surface (head) and one on the rim.
There are special cables (“Y-cables”) that separate the dual input and turn it into two single trigger inputs. This way you could distribute the two sounds to two pads and/or cymbals. However, the dual function is lost as well as controller functions (for example, the choke function for cymbals). You will only be able to use the middle playing surface on both pads. - With a so-called Trigger-to-MIDI converter you get – depending on the device – one or more additional trigger inputs that are converted into MIDI signals. If your module has a MIDI input, you can assign the signals accordingly and expand your module via this detour.
Important: Keep in mind that this requires basic knowledge of MIDI and you will have to go a little deeper into the settings on your module.
Also make sure that any assignment is possible at all and is not limited to the number of inputs built into the module. Such information can be found in the MIDI Implementation Chart, which should be part of your user manual.
Why does the sound of an unplayed pad resonate quietly (and what can I do about it)?
A trigger signal is generated by swinging, which is transformed into an electrical voltage by the pad or cymbal. However, such oscillations do not occur solely due to the direct striking of the playing surface, but also due to vibrations that can be triggered by other components on the set. With each stroke, you set the whole set vibrating (as well as the floor, by the way, and the walls and windows in the room). It can happen that such a resonance is strong enough to unintentionally trigger one or more inputs of your module.
This event is called crosstalk and is undesirable in most cases.
There are several ways to counter crosstalk. First try to achieve a solution in a mechanical way:
- Check if all screw connections are tight enough, especially at the holders of the pads/cymbals.
- Check and, if necessary, adjust pads/tubes/rods/holders that touch each other so that they are free.
- Adjust the arms of your drum rack slightly to reduce any possible swinging up.
- Check the hardness of the floor on which the set is placed. Possibly a thicker softer carpet will help suppress unwanted vibrations.
If the mechanical method doesn’t help, you can go into the depths of your module. In the trigger settings you should check the following parameters (if available):
- Threshold: a higher value makes the trigger less sensitive.
- Crosstalk Cancel (sometimes called X-Talk): increase the value at the unwanted triggering pad/cymbal.
- Retrigger Cancel: examines the trigger signal for its decay and tries to detect and prevent a new “trigger breakout” in the decay. Increase the value as much as necessary, but as little as possible.
- Mask Time: specifies the time within which no further oscillation is taken into account after a correct triggering. Set the Mask Time as long as necessary and as short as possible.
It is quite possible that it will take you a while to turn off the crosstalk, since all the parameters intertwine and influence each other.
But the effort is rewarded with a better feel on the set! (AND: you got to know your module better!).
What does the equalizer (EQ) actually do?
The equalizer is one of the most important tools for processing the sound of your drums. In the three-dimensional stereo image, the EQ controls the Height dimension.
You can split the word equalizer into the parts “equal” (which means “exactly like”) and “-lizer” (which means “-maker”). The equalizer is therefore an ” egalizer ” or ” leveller “.
What EQ does equalize are the frequencies of the sound or tonal signal. Without going too much into physics: A complex sound like a Snare Drum is the simultaneous sounding of countless tonal signals in different frequencies (pitches). An equalizer is like a volume control; however, the EQ does not control the overall volume of the signal, but only the volume of a specific frequency of the signal.
In this way, disturbing (too loud) or missing (too quiet) frequency components can be adjusted. Used correctly, the sound can be dramatically improved. However, it can also be strongly “bent” on purpose as an effect. For example, with the EQ it’s easy to make the set sound like it’s coming through a telephone receiver.
What is the transient function and how do I set it?
The transient function you find in higher priced e-drum modules (e.g. Roland TD-27) is designed to shape the very first impulse of any sound – the so-called attack or transient. This transient is a very important part of the signal, because – to put it simply – it is by the transient that we can recognize a sound and assign it to an instrument. Without transients, the sound would have no “beginning”, so to speak, and it would be very difficult to locate the sound rhythmically.
So the transient function is used to amplify or attenuate only the transient phase of a sound. Depending on the complexity of the transient function, the operation is somewhat reminiscent of the way a compressor is set. (This in turn can “let through” a transient, i.e., exclude it from compression so that it does not lose its “bite” (attack).
The transient function therefore works well together with a compressor; however, it can also be used on its own without any problems.
What does the error message “User Sample Memory Full” mean?
More and more modules offer the feature to load own sound recordings (samples) into the device and to edit these samples at like an instrument, at least in principle. This allows you to give your sound its own character.
With Roland (TD-17 incl. V2, TD-27 incl. V2, TD-50 and TD-50X) these samples are saved in a separate memory. A kit that uses samples has direct access to the sample memory and plays the desired user sample from there.
The longer a sample is, meaning the longer it decays, the more the file size of the sample increases. Since the memory is limited in its total capacity, it may already be full even if free memory slots are still displayed. You will then get the error message “User Sample Memory Full” when trying to load a kit with User Samples from the SD card and you won’t be able to continue.
Solution 1: Use the Sample Optimize function! If you often import and delete samples, “gaps” can occur in the memory (computer nerds know this as “fragmentation”). Sample Optimize defragments and rearranges the memory so that the gaps disappear and space is again available for samples. The function can do a lot or almost nothing, depending on how many samples your device contains and how heavily the memory is defragmented.
Be sure to create a complete backup including samples before using Sample Optimize!
Solution 2: After the Sample Optimize you can delete more samples by hand (the manual tells you how). This is a straightforward process, however, you’ll want to make sure you don’t delete samples that are used in kits you like to play. So start your delete action first with kits you don’t like at all (and delete both the kits and the samples that were assigned to the kits).
The First Class Solution:
1. Create a full backup of your device so you don’t lose anything.
2. Then save all the kits you really want to keep one by one on the SD card (check the “With User Samples” checkbox!).
3. After that, delete or overwrite all kits by copying any kit (that does not use user samples) to every kit location.
4. You can now delete all User Samples. The user sample memory is then empty again.
Now load your individually saved kits from the SD card again into your device (don’t forget to tick the checkbox “With User Samples”!).
You can check the Sample Memory after each kit you’ve loaded to see which User Samples have been added. In any case, the error message should no longer appear.